Globalising the Maa Ornaments
Nooloiretu Siranka examines enkarewa—an ornament Maasai brides wear—outside the Sekenani gate of the Maasai Mara National Reserve. She has spent most of her adult life right outside this gate. She has made friends and learnt a few words in English even though she cannot write them down because she missed an opportunity to go to school. She can also quickly calculate the dollar-shilling rates like an experienced Nairobi Securities Exchange Public Listed Company broker. She celebrates with her friends during peak seasons when she makes good sales at this very place. And it is here she worried about three years ago when governments shut international borders, leading to the collapse of tourism and consequently bringing her business to its knees. The 50-year-old has sold ornaments all her adult life.
Nooloiretu says the Reserve is important because it is her economic lifeline.
“My son graduated from the University of Nairobi in 2023. I paid his school fees and house rent, and you know Nairobi is not cheap.”
Nooloiretu notes that visitors love the Maasai culture, and beads are more easily exportable.
Naini Simpai, another beads trader at the Sekenani gate, says making and selling beads is her mainstay because they cannot grow crops because of wildlife.
“Even when you plant kale and spinach for home consumption, elephants will eat everything,” she notes.
Despite the attendant challenges of hosting wildlife, Naini loves wild animals.
“My favourite animal is the lion, but over time, I have come to appreciate the wildebeest because the Mara River crossing spectacle brings us a lot of revenue.”
Nooretet Kupai, a leader of a group of women who sell beads at the Keekorok Airstrip, agrees with her colleagues that selling beads is transforming lives. For years, Nooretet and her colleagues covered nearly 30 kilometres daily from Sekenani Gate to the Airstrip to sell their handiworks. The Narok County Government has now put up boarding facilities for women to cut down on the daily commute and avoid burnout.
